Jhoenna has taken her 15 years of experience in the beauty industry and known expertise to develop the Dérmica line of results-driven esthetic treatments that are sure to surpass your expectations!
The desired effect created by contouring and highlighting is based on the art technique known as chiaroscuro. Chiaroscuro (chiar· oscu· ro) is defined by Google as “the treatment of light and shade in drawing and painting”.
Professional makeup artists have used this technique for decades in film and photography. The application of this technique creates the illusion of symmetry, balance, and defines the natural features.
The key to perfecting the contoured finish lies in understanding yourown unique features, and the method behind the striped and dotted madness.
Read on as we define the key points to highlighting & contouring, and help you find your unique technique!
Contouring
Contouring is the technique that will create depth and chisel features. The color shades applied compliment the natural shadows of the face. These shadows are cast around the features and the perimeter of the face. They are the areas that appear deep-set.
Chiseled Contour
This part of the process gives the most definition. The color tends to be neutral with a matte finish. Use this step to cut areas covered or at the deepest point of the hollow. This step gives the illusion of bold contours. Precise application is important, otherwise the result can look dusty.
With the chiseled edge of your applicator, apply a guideline.
Use a fluffed brush to blend afterwards.
Work in light layers until desired effect is achieved.
If using a cream/liquid product, apply before powders.
If using powdered product, apply after liquid base products.
Bronzed Contour
Create a sun kissed glow and blend contours with this step. This product tends to be warmer undertone with a matte finish. The application is lightly blended over chiseled contours to help blend and add dimension to the curves. Light application is best for this product.
Highlighting focal point of the face will brighten features and soften the complexion. The colors used compliment the most vibrant areas of the face where light naturally reflects.
Matte Highlight
This is good for adding volume and brightening areas that can become oily or creased throughout the day. The product can also help set areas that are naturally lighter but have larger visible pores such as the mid-cheeks.
Application TIPS:
Use a sponge or flat brush to press into the skin.
This step is to be used with a light dusting technique. It will give the illusion of a dewy complexion in areas where light naturally glows onto the skin.
Careful when using this product as it will emphasize fine lines and pores. Due to its metallic properties, it can also cause the area of application to become oily.
Application TIPS:
Use a light fanned or dual fiber brush.
Lightly dust or press highlight onto the skin.
Apply only to area you want to reflect a glow.
Apply after your matte highlight.
There are many ways to enhance your natural beauty, contouring and highlighting is one of our favorites. Remember to apply your makeup in a well-lit room that has access to natural light. This will ensure your look is ready for any occasion and lighting.
Moisturizers or creams as they are often called, are considered a core essential when it comes to a daily skin care routine. Along with the varying formulations and brands available, we also have the option of day and night cream. Let’s talk day vs night cream and find out what makes them unique to their time of day.
So, what is the difference between the two?
Day Cream
The focus of a day cream is to hydrate and protect the skin against environmental damage. Day creams are typically formulated with humectants such as hyaluronic acid that help boost hydration and prevent moisture loss. They will also feature natural antioxidants and UV protection to guard against oxidative stress and sun damage. They tend to be lightweight formulas that wear well throughout the day and under makeup.
We recommend:
Glo Skin BeautyOil Free Moisturizer – lightweight formula offers a healthy dose of hydration and won’t clog pores. Ideal for oily or combination skin.
Glo Skin Beauty Oil Control Emulsion – hydrate and prevent oil build-up throughout the day with this unique moisturizer perfect for even the oiliest skin types. Ideal for very oily/acne prone skin.
Glo Skin BeautyConditioning Hydration Cream –balancing hydration and protection in a silky formula. Ideal for all skin types but oily.
Night Cream
Night creams are your treatment moisturizers. They contain high concentrations of reparative ingredients and moisture. These powerful formulas are not ideal for day wear as sun exposure may compromise the effects of the product. The consistencies may also be thicker and therefore do not wear appropriately under makeup. Night creams deliver their results while you sleep.
When comparing day cream and night cream we can say that your day cream will sustain results and protect the skin, and your night cream will deliver a higher dose of active ingredients and therefore faster results or benefits.
Tips on how to groom and treat/repair natural lashes post lash extensions.
Let’s talk….lash extension care!
Have you ever considered what you would do in the event that your favorite lash artist moved away? Or if you became part of that small percentage of clients that begin to experience irritation? Or the unthinkable….a pandemic put a halt to ALL your beauty services?!?
Well if you haven’t considered the alternatives to lash extensions , or you would like some tips on how to groom and treat/repair natural lashes post lash extensions, read on.
We need a break….
Lash adhesives and techniques have really come a long way since their early days. Reputable Lash Artists will use quality products and proper techniques to ensure your lashes are matched to the appropriate length/thickness to avoid damage while suiting your needs.
Although all precautions may be taken on both your artist and your behalf, extended wear and tear can alter the natural growth. A break from your lashes will help strengthen them up and restore before your next application.
Keep ‘em clean…
Keeping your lashes clean is important for proper lash extension care as it allows absorption of lash serums and natural moisture. Build-up on the lashes is also prime feeding ground for harmful bacteria that cause styes.
Use gentle eye makeup removers to break the bonds of your product and lift away build-up.
Follow up with a gentle foaming wash. A gentle facial cleanser or a lash foam and cleansing brush gets right down to the lash line. If you are choosing to use a brush, use soft pressure and small circular motions.
For lash extensions, use only if approved by your lash artist.
This process leaves your eyes feeling refreshed and makes for a squeaky-clean start to your makeup application.
**TIP** Stick to a gentle eye makeup remover if you have sensitive eyes.
Our picks for lash cleansing:
Glo Skin Beauty – Gentle Makeup Remover. This light formula removes even the most stubborn makeup and a little goes a very long way.
Glo Skin Beauty – Gentle Cream Cleanser Don’t be fooled by the name, this mild formula melts rights into your skin leaving a hydrated and clean surface.
Lily Anne – Eyelash Foam Bubble Wash ($29.90). This fine foam soaks right down to the base of your natural lashes and extensions leaving them clean and intact.
Lily Anne – Lash Cleaning Brush ($7.90) These soft bristled brushes are made specifically for the sensitive eye area and strip lash cleansing.
Treat and hydrate…
Keeping your lashes hydrated and enriched with nutrients will help prevent premature breakage and treat dry brittle lashes. Much like the hair on our head our lashes also benefit from added moisture.
Lash conditioners feed the hair strands with specialized nutrients that encourage new and longer hair growth. The lashes are able to rebuild and strengthen for better application in the future. Most conditioners are also compatible and recommended for use even with lash extensions.
Our top pick for lash conditioning:
EyEnvy – Lash & Brow Conditioner($69.95). Users report results in as little as 2 weeks with no side effects. The product is simple to use and can last months on end!
Keep in mind that if you have stray lash extensions hanging around, do not pull or cut them off. Contact your lash artist for recommendation for proper removal.
Hope this info helps ties you over until your next lash appointment!
*If you have other questions regarding lash care or other beauty matters, please submit your inquiries to bookings@dermica.ca. We may feature your questions in our next post!
Gentle extractions between facials helps maintain and boost results of your professional service.
Are you ready to try some DIY extractions?
Supplies
Extraction solution
1 Tsp of baking soda
1 cup (450mL) of water
Steamer
1 litre of boiling water
Large bowl or basin
Large towel
Prepping your skin:
Start with a clean face (cleansed and exfoliated).
Wipe your skin with a toner or Witch Hazel prior to applying the solution.
Mixing & applying the solution:
Combine the baking soda and water until it becomes clouded. The baking soda will quickly settle at the bottom of your mixing bowl. This is fine, just give it a stir again right before you apply.
Using a flat makeup brush, mask brush, or cotton swabs, carefully dab a thin layer of the solution onto congested areas. The solution can be runny, cover your eyes with a tissue if applying to your forehead.
Let the solution set for 5 minutes.
Steaming the pores:
Carefully pour the boiling water into the bowl/basin.
Hover your face approximately 12 inches above the bowl.
Drape a large towel over your head to ensure the steam remains enclosed.
** Combo skin: steam for 5-7 minutes. Oily skin: steam for 7-10 minutes. **
Take short breaks if needed, just make sure to keep the steam under the dome.
Extracting the Blackheads:
Wipe the solution with a damp cotton pad/ gauze, or face towel.
Using your finger or cotton swabs, roll down the side of your nose while supporting the skin on the opposite end.
Sealing the pores:
Soak a small towel with cold water and wring out the excess water. Press the cold towel into your skin to contract the pores.
There’s something about popping blemishes that can be so satisfying to watch. Pimple popping videosgained such popularity, there was a television series devoted to the extraction!
So, what does this juicy procedure involve? Read on as we dive into your pores for a proper blackhead extraction!
Blackhead extractions are the focal point of our pore cleansing facial: the PORE.
Pore cleansing is the process of physically and/or chemically removing debris from the pores. The process clears build-up from the pores and allows them to contract.
Start with a fresh face.
Extractionsare best on freshly cleansed and exfoliated skin. Cleansing ensures that no harmful bacteria ispresent when exposing the open pore.Exfoliationclears the opening of the pore andloosens the tip of the debris.
After cleansing and exfoliating, a specialized solution is applied to help dislodge the oily debris. The solution is commonly a sodium bicarbonate blend that creates a chemical reaction known as saponification. Consequently, oils and fats are transformed into a soap solution. In addition, oily debris becomes water-soluble in the process.
The skin is then placed under a warm steamer. The warmth and humidity of the steam opens up the pores.
O3
Professional steamers feature an Ozone (O3) function that emits ozone steam onto the skin. O3 increases the skin’s healing abilities and disinfects the surface. O3 also has an oil-reducing effect that lasts beyond the service.
The moment we’ve all been waiting for…
Physical extractions are performed using a special tool with directional pressure. Large pores are emptied using a “scooping” maneuver, while smaller pores are purged with a simple glide of the tool or fingers.
Following extractions, the skin is soothed and sanitized with a post extraction solution. The solution usually contains an antiseptic and a calming ingredient.
Blackhead extractions can take 15-30 minutes depending on the skin condition. They can also leave the skin looking irritated for 1-2 hours. Once the pores are cleared, they can remain clear for up to 8 weeks.
When it comes to our role as skincare technicians, we must say juicy extractions are by far a service favourite!
Although blackheads are not necessarily caused by poor skin hygiene, these darkened little oil specs can make the skin look and feel rough, oily, and dirty. We have countless skin products and methods of removal, but what should we really be looking for when choosing products, ingredients, and services?
In this article we will focus on defining the ‘blackhead’. From selecting the right ingredients to DIY pore cleansing techniques, our tips will help you minimize and control blackheads.
What is a blackhead?
Blackheads are quite simply clogged hair follicles in the skin. These tiny follicles can become clogged due to enlargement and/ or years of buildup.
Our hair follicles are a type of pore found throughout the body, except for the palms and soles. They are most visible in areas with higher oil production or areas where the oil collects throughout the day such as the creases of the nose.
A combination of waste.
Waste can include dead cells, oil, makeup, dirt, etc.
This particular type of pore consists of a tube-like structure in the skin that sprouts hair, excretes oil, and retains a combination of waste within the its tiny canal. This combination includes dead cells, oil, makeup, dirt, and basically anything that can melt into the pores. Over time the debris can become solidified when neglected by being left inside the pore.
Loss of elasticity.
Adding to the cause is the loss of skin elasticity. Over time the opening of the pores can become weakened. This can be due to underlying skin condition, skin trauma, or pressure from buildup. Once the pores have lost their ability to contract it becomes difficult to regain this elasticity without resorting to advanced skin therapy such as LASER or IPL.
Dead keratin, not dirt!
Blackheads may vary in colour, diameter, and depth. However, they all have the same characteristic opening that can be easily spotted. The dark pinpoint that we see at the surface of the skin, is actually a result of dead keratin cells being exposed to the open air (oxidized). This reaction causes a browning similar to the effect caused by leaving cut fruit such as a banana or an apple open to the elements. Contrary to popular belief, the dark tip is not dirt!
Blackheads are different from whiteheads due to the opening being present and the causes vary. If a blackhead becomes infected it can then transition into a pustule aka a “pimple”. Improper extraction and/ or excess pressure are most commonly the cause of infection.
Now that you’re familiar with the composition of a blackhead, let’s move on to some solutions and prevention, and DIY techniques for extraction.
